Peering out past the sweep of the great bay of Naples, there is a sense of ancient history steeped in sedimentary stone, as well as rich stories of the past echoing in the eyes of the people. When we think of historical cities, often our minds turn towards the art that represents the region. Yet remarkably, the main art associated with Naples today is not music, theatre, painting or dancing…rather, it is the art of tailoring. The historical and present-day tailoring talent in the city of Naples has found such success that it has earned it own classification: Neapolitan tailoring. Some say that that Italian tailors are so perceptive of the body morphology of a client, that curiously, fewer fittings than usual are necessary to get an exceptional fit. Perhaps Italian tailors have developed a ‘sixth-sense’ for their craft, since elements of the trade permeate their pores, beginning as early as the age of eight or nine, when these tailors first put a needle to the cloth…or maybe the very essence of being Italian naturally interjects emotion into the cloth that they craft. But in Italy, there is no question that this specific type of tailoring that is unique to the world, called ‘Neapolitan tailoring’, has made a name for itself in this culturally rich and impossibly colloquial city of Naples, Italy. Credit: Parisian GentlemanThe Neapolitan style jacket says “cool” in more ways than one. 3 buttons to 2 rollThe top button on the lapel roll, sewn by hand and the chest “Barchetta” boat shaped pocket. Hand stitched buttonhole and double pick stitching (Doppia Impuntura) on lapel and pockets. The higher lapel gorge sits closer up to the shoulderThe trademark of tailoring from Naples is “Spalla Camicia” or shirt shoulder. Meaning there is no padding in the shoulder and has a pleated sleeve head. The Neapolitan shoulder process is similar to the shirt making process where the fabric is tucked into the shoulder causing the fabric to naturally drape down. This causes a shirring or wrinkling effect which is intentional and a work of art. Flap pockets with ticket pocket two instead of the traditional four functional handmade sleeve buttonholes Another detail of Neapolitan tailoring is the minimal lining. This suit jacket is incredibly lightweight, breathable and almost wears like a second skin. It is half lined (lined through the front panels and top of the back to give it some structure. And since the rest of the jacket is exposed all of the seams must be finished perfectly. The finest English fabrics from Holland & Sherry Super 130’s grey herringbone. Labels and monogram completely stitched by handConsider choosing a super 120’s & up when choosing a cloth for your custom suit. Look at the clean drape of the trouser. The addition of the 2″ cuffs add a formality and some weight to the bottom to enhance the drape.Side tabs on the trouser and Sit-Con custom shirt.
